Monday, March 31, 2014

Photographing South West Desert of USA

This is about our 2 weeks vacation traveling and photographing desert south west of USA.





Antelope Canyon, Page, AZ



There are 5 major airports surrounding the South west. They are Los Angeles, CA, Boulder, CO, Salt Lake city, UT, Las Vegas, NV and Phoenix, AZ. Rental cars/RV and flights are much cheaper in such major airports. Use the same airport for both arrival and departure to keep flight expenses low. We found that Phoenix provided the best value with respect to SUV rental, flight expense and was closer to our vacation spots. RVing (Recreational Vehicle) is the best way to do your vacation. It will take care of your accommodation, travel and food. RV provides best value for your vacation per dollar. You do not have to hunt for restaurants in the middle of nowhere. It is just behind you. You can pull over the best spot for the night. Depending on the size of the RV, you need to visit the dump station and refilling the water tank every 2 or 3 days. However, most the the RV rental companies do not allow off the road travel. Because of this reason we opted for a medium sized SUV. Three most important advantages of SUV are, the ability to sit upright for long travel, lot of luggage space for travel gear and for off-road travel. Always plan the vacation routes in a circular manner starting with point of arrival and ending with point of departure. Thus, you do not have to visit the places you already visited.



Court of the Patriarchs, Zion National Park, UT


We started from Phoenix to Las vegas via route 93 called Joshua tree parkway, Part of it is interstate 40. As the name suggests, there are plenty of Joshua trees on the way. We spent some time exploring Hoover dam and Lake Mead. Hoover dam is an arch dam. Two days we spent on Las Vegas was worst part of our trip. We realized that we are not glitter loving gambling enthusiasts. Our next destination was Zion national park. Instead of taking interstate 15, we took the North shore road(route 167) along the lake Mead. The Valley of Fire state park, NV is easily accessible from this road by route 169. This is Nevada's first state park. Located in the confluence of Virgin and Colorado rivers, this state park provides what a typical desert biome has to offer. Route 169 between interstate 15 and route 167 is designated as a scenic route. There are trekking trails, petroglyphs of Pueblo and Anasazi Indians, slot canyons, desert vistas, colorful and intricately shaped rocks and arches.


Zion National Park, UT

Do you know? In gravity dam, the water pressure of the reservoir is compensated by the weight of the dam. Higher the level of the reservoir, heavier the dam is. On the other hand, in arch dam, the water pressure is distributed to the both canyon walls. So arch dam is very thin compared to gravity dam.

Do you know difference between Joshua tree and Saguaro? Both are common in North American deserts. Joshua is tree mostly found in and around Mojave desert. Saguaro is a cactus fond mostly in and around Sonoran desert.



Point Imperial, Grand Canyon National Park (North Rim), AZ



Take Interstate 15 north to enter Utah. After passing cities like Mesquite and st. George take exit to route 9 to proceed to Zion National park. Zion is Utah's first national park. Parking is very limited inside the park and private vehicles are not allowed in the park. Unless your reach early in the morning, you might have to park your car in the city of Springdale and take shuttle bus to the park. Zion is hikers paradise. There are plenty to explore and enjoy. Although there is one hotel inside the park, you need to book months or even years ahead to get the accommodation. Zion is a big park, part of it like Kolob canyon is only accessible from interstate 15. Don't forget to take at least one or two hikes in the park. It is really worth it. Some of the important viewing locations are The Grotto, Three patriarchs, The weeping rock and The temple of Sinawava. Some of the hikes are strenuous with steep trails like Angles landing, obserservation point and hidden canyon. The trails from the Temple of Sinavawa to the Narrows along the virgin river with steep rocks on either side is extremely beautiful. The slot canyon beyond the Narrows offer a very strenuous hike with occasional swimming needed. Watch out for flash floods if you hike in the afternoon. There are couple of arches like Crawford and Kolob, the latter requires a strenuous hike into the back country from Kolob canyon (near interstate 15).


Bryce Canyon National Park, UT



It is time to leave for Grand canyon National Park, North rim. The route 9, called Zion-Mt. Carmel highway has couple of tunnels. If you are driving RV, you need escort to pass through these tunnels. From Mt. Carmel, take route 89 south to Grand Canyon north rim. Due to high elevation, north rim is more green with meadows and streams and Ponderosa forests compared to south rim. South rim is more like a desert. Being more remote, north rim is much less crowded even in peak summer vacation time. There are plenty of beautiful over looks along the North rim. They are, Point Imperial (the highest point), Angeles window, Roosevelt point and Cape Royal. Point Sublime is 17 miles away on dirt road, thus requires an SUV. While in North rim, look for Kaibab Squirrels. These are squirrels with white tails which live entirely in Ponderosa pine forests only in the north rim of Kaibab plateau.


The Castle, Capitol Reef National Park, UT



Do you know? What is the difference between Kaibab squirrel and Abert's squirrel? read the entire blog to find it out.

Now,it is time to head North to Bryce Canyon National Park along route 89 north. After passing the city of Kenab, UT (and before reaching Mt. Carmel) look for directions to Coral Pink sand dunes state park. These dunes are formed by pink and orange colored Navajo sand stones. The high winds pick up sands from the surrounding mountains and drop it in the park due to Ventury effect. The crescent shaped dunes are extremely beautiful during twilight hours. Continue on 89 north to Bryce Canon and take route 12 east to enter Dixie National forest. Take 63 south to enter Bryce Canyon National park and you enter the world of red rock spired Hoodoos. The hoodoos standing in the amphitheatre of the canyon resembles the temples of south India. The multi colored hoodoos during twilight provides an exceptional photographic opportunity. During sunrise or sunset, take a walk down to the bottom of the canyon among the hoodoos. This was one of the most beautiful part of our vacation we had. There are a number of over looks. The best are Bryce point and Inspiration Point.



Canyonlands National Park, UT



Do you know? National forests are managed by Department of Agriculture and National Parks are managed by depart of Interior.

After spending one sunrise and one sunset, we headed towards Capitol Reef Nation Park along route 12. As per Scenic byway association, it is one of the most scenic desert routes in United states. There are a couple of state parks on the way. They are Kodachrome basin state park, Anasazi state park museum and Grand Staircase Escalante state park. Anasazi museum provides a historical glimpse of Anasazi culture. From the town of Torrey, take 24 east to Capitol reef national park. The castle, temple of the sun and moon and Capitol dome are some of the sightseeing locations in this park. Since this park is not crowded, let somebody know that your trail and the expected return time especially if you trek alone. The next main destination is Canyonlands National park. We took route 24 north, then interstate 70 east and route 191 south. Goblin Valley state park can be easily accessible from route 24. This park is covered with funny looking rock formations called Goblins. It is amazing that the artists in wind and water can carve up such beautiful creations. Many of these creations look like it is only meant for adult viewing!. Canyon lands National park is a different world altogether. It is as if you are on Mars than on earth, having parched desert with craters and deep ravines. The green river (a tributary of Colorado) and Colorado river divide this park into three sections- The Maze, Island in the sky and the Needles. Each of these sections are not accessible from the other. On the way to the Island in the sky section of the park, there is a state park called Dead horse point state park, where the Colorado River takes a U-turn. On the way to the Needles section of the park, there is state park called Newspaper rock state park where you can see ancient petroglyphs with plenty of Kokopelli are depicted on a rock.



Dead Horse Point State Park, UT



Do you know? Arches are formed by wind erosion, while natural bridge is formed by water erosion.

Across the route 191 from Canyon Lands national park is Arches National park. A number of arches formed by wind erosion exist in this park of which Delicate Arch and landscape arch are the most famous. There are over 2000 arches in the park. Some are newly born and some are about to collapse. It is difficult to fathom the life of an arch through the narrow window of human life. Now, we head 191 south to Monument Valley. Take route 211 west to go to The Needles section on the Canyon Lands National park. Few yards off 211 is the Newspaper rock state park. Take a short cut from 211 crossing Manti la Sal National forest to rejoin 191 south. The high elevation of this forest enables it to have plenty aspens trees, meadows and streams surrounded by desert plains. Near the town of Blanding on 191 south is the Edge of the Cedar park Museum. This museum has a large collection of Pueblo and Anasazi Indian artifacts. From 191 south, take 163 to Monument Valley. Before reaching the town of Mexican hat (This is because, there is huge rock formation in the form of Mexican hat), you can take an unpaved road to the Valley of Gods. This road provides the desert landscape at its best. The valley of the gods road joins route 261. 261 North takes you to Natural bridge National Monument. Close to 261 south is Goose neck state park. In this park, San Juan river (a tributary of Colorado river) takes multiple U- turns. A meandering process which took millions of years.



Balancing Rock, Arches National Park, UT

Further South of 161 along Utah-Arizona line is Monument valley. This is a Navajo reservation. You can enjoy Navajo Indian culture at his best here. Note that Arizona does not have day light saving time, Navajo Indian reservation which is inside Arizona has, so is Utah. So you will be totally confused about the time once you enter this area. The Mesas called Mittens is very beautiful during twilight. Our Next destination was the city of Page, AZ. Route 163 joins 160 west and then to 98 North to reach Page. There is another arch dam (called Glenn Canyon) here across Colorado like Hoover dam which is down stream of this dam. The reservoir, Lake Powell is well known recreational area. In and around there are a number of slot canyons, the most well known is Antelope canyon. This is a sacred place for Navajo Indians who operate this area. This slot canyon is formed by a ravine and dry wash across a large rock formation. During mid day, sun peeps through the top of the ravine which lit the entire Navajo sandstone gorge.


Delicate Arch, Arches National Park, UT

Now we are heading for the last part of the vacation - Grand canyon south rim. Take route 89 south and at the town of Cameron take 64 west to enter the park from its east entrance. South rim is more crowded and you may need to elbow your way and parking is a big problem. One of the best place to see the expanse and depth of Grand canyon is Grand view point provided there is not haze or smog. Also, Colorado river is closer to the view points in south rim than the north rim.Now, it time to look for Abert's squirrel. Both Kaibab and Abert's squirrel evolved from the same species. However, the separation of north and south rim by grand canyon caused them to evolve into two different species - another way to measure the 'depth' of the Grand canyon.


Newspaper Rock state park, UT

Do you know? Now you know the difference between Kaibab and Abert's squirrel.

We are about to close the loop around the desert. Take route 64 south and then 180 south through Flag staff to reach Phoenix using interstate 17.


Monument Valley, AZ



Key points to remember
1) Try to get accommodation inside the park which will require to book months in advance. If using RV, get an RV park inside or close to the park even if it is little expensive.

2) Carry a rice cooker or grille with you if not renting an RV. Restaurants are few and far apart and you may end up wasting time looking for food. If using rice cooker, cook the rice before leaving the hotel. If using grille, pull over to a beautiful view point.

3) Spent at least two days in each park. Hike only during early morning or late evening as most of the trails have not shade at all. Sun rise and sun set provide beautiful hue to already colorful rocks. To escape the scorching sun, use midday for shopping, learning the geology and learning the culture of Anasazi and Pueblo Indians. Also, try to travel between the parks during mid-day.

4) Carry plenty of water for hike. As a rule of thumb, you need one gallon of water per 6 hour hike. Since you loose lot minerals, carry couple of bottles of sports drinks.

5) Never forget camera and carry plenty of films.

6) Watch your step, especially if you are hiking during twilight hours. Animals and snakes are very active during that time especially in and around rocks and bushes. Most of the trails are very very steep with hundreds of feet drop on either side especially Zion and Canyon lands national park.

7) Fill the gas tank even if it is half full and replenish your food and drink supply while passing small towns. You do not want to hunt for these in the middle of nowhere.

8) Last but not the least. Don't forget to fill the gas tank before you return your rental car. I forgot and they charged me with European gas price.




Goose Neck State Park, UT


All is well that ends well: While in Grand canyon north rim, when we reached Cape Royal view point which is at the end of the road, I realized that I forgot and left my back pack some where. We stopped around 8 to 9 locations before Cape Royal. The back pack contained expensive camera, lenses, polorizer, filters, slide films and above all the slides I used until then. I had to go back all the locations I visited that day wasting around 2 hours without any success. Then I saw a car of a park ranger coming. I waved them down and explained the situation. They suggested me to enquire at the visitor center. So we went to the visitor center and found that somebody had dropped my back pack half an hour ago.



Grand View Point,Grand Canyon, South Rim, AZ
Getting embarrassed is better than getting scared: Again, while going to Grand Canyon north rim which is very remote and could see hardly any vehicles in the road. The road just wade through miles and miles of Ponderosa pine forests. At one turn, we saw a convertible Jeep Wrangler just in front of us with three huge men with tattoos all over them. Suddenly we heard a shattering noise and there was a small hole in the passenger side of the wind shield. Surprisingly, the wind shield did not shatter completely. Frightened, we stopped the SUV and inspected the damage. Did those guys shot us? But we did not see them turning around and shooting us either. Little scared, we continued driving. After couple of miles and after another turn, we saw the same Jeep wrangler just in front of us. Suddenly we heard another shattering sound. This time another small hole in the middle of the wind shield and a web of shattered glass originating from the hole. Frightened and scared to death, we stopped the SUV and did not know what to do. Since we did not have any other choice we continued. After few miles, we saw a car of a park ranger coming. We waved them to stop and went to explain the situation. Both the ladies, with their hands on their gun approached our vehicle. Then they started laughing. We did not find that funny. They explained what happened. There are lot of small stones in the road. Being remote, road cleaning operations are less frequent. Some of the tires especially new, pick up those stones in their groove. Whenever these tires see any gullible guys behind them, they fire !!

Equipment Used: Pentax SLR ZX-5N with lens SMC -FA 1:2 24 mm IF & AL and Pentax circular polarizer

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